Climbing the Ausangate 9D/8N

The mountain region south east of Cusco, known by locals as the “Nudo de Vilcanota”, is the second largest glacial system of Peru. Located between the Peruvian departments of Puno and Cusco, this range has over 30 peaks above 18,000 ft. / 5,500 m.,

glacial lakes, and a unique feature: the Quelcaya Ice Cap. This geological formation is almost 13 km long and 4.5 km wide. There are only two ice caps in the tropical parts of the world, the Quelcaya and another, much smaller one, located on the island of Java, in Indonesia.

The importance of ice caps is well known, they are unique witnesses of seasonal variations that allow to study the climatologic changes all over the world. Micro-particle studies of the Quelcaya ice were used to create a map of weather patterns of the central Andes over the last 10,000 years.

The landscape is doted by llamas and alpacas, owned by the shepherding communities that populate the area for centuries. Non domesticated vicuñas (one of the four American cameloides) and other wild life can often be observed near small Andean lakes, of course, all amidst unspoiled nature and hiking routes off the beaten path.

The climbing expedition begins with the so called “Camino del Apu Ausangate” trekking, similar to the hike described on our web page “Suggested Program”, however, we will do the trail the other way round, starting off at the point where the published program normally ends. By doing so one has more time to acclimatize on high altitude (ranging from 13,000 to 16,500 ft. / 4,000 to 5,100 m.) and to prepare oneself better for the final accent of Mount Ausangate).

For further description please consult the following pages: “A Transforming Experience” and “The Highest Tambos”

DAY 01: Cusco – Huampococha
Early morning departure by bus along the fertile Vicanota valley to the town of Checacupe from where we start ascending to Pitumarca. Following the spectacular Japura gorge we reach a place called Congomiri (13,000 ft. / 3900 m.), trailhead for our unique trekking experience “Camino del Apu Ausangate.” Llamas will carry part of your personal equipment. Gradually we will work our way up through a picturesque valley where you can appreciate some of the highest potato cultivations in the world. The landscapes changes dramatically as we leave the last houses behind us, until we get to the Anta pass (16000 ft. / 4900 mt.) with first fine views of the Vilcanota range. Overnight stay at the Huampococha Tambo

DAY 02: Huampococha – Antanapata
A spectacular part of the trail finds us hiking in the middle of mountains with red, ochre, and blue strata. This section offers a glimpse of marvelous geological wonder and natural beauty. Frequently groups of gracious vicuñas and deer can be spotted in this isolated area dominated by the mighty Ausangate mountain. Accommodation at the Anantapata Tambo

DAY 03: Anantapata – Machuracay
Tremendous views of the glaciated south face of the Apu will inspire us as we continue towards the red sandstone formations of the “Nevado del Inca”. After a demanding ascent of the Palomachayoc pass at an elevation of 16,500 ft. / 5,150 m. we will hike down to the Machuracay Tambo, the highest lodge in the world (15,700 ft. / 4,800 m) right at the foothills of the Apu Ausangate.

DAY 04: Machuracay – Porterage to “Campo Alto”
First approach in the foothills of the mighty “Apu”. Following the moraines we will reach a section of the south East Ridge and after some scrambling we will negotiate our access to the glacier, which allows us to become more familiar with our ice climbing tools. At approximately 17,700 ft. / 5,400 m we will determine the location for our “high camp” and deposit the equipment. In the late afternoon we will be back at Machuracay Tambo.

DAY 05: Machuracay
Today we will rest in the base lodge and prepare ourselves for the accent by checking the equipment, doing some technical training, and observing the route.

DAY 06: Machuracay – “Campo Alto”
Early in the morning we will take the route that leads us back to the glacier. After reaching the “high camp” and enjoying a picnic, part of the group will install a static fixed rope on the mountain wall, while other members are assigned to prepare the camp for the night.

DAY 07: “Summit bid” for Ausangate
We will getting ready at 3am and by daybreak we should start for the accent on the fix rope. This section will give us access to the high, groundless snow fields (using snowshoes) on our way to the so called “cumbre falsa” (or “fake summit”), before we finally reach the top of the Ausangate (20,945 ft. / 6,384 m).
In the afternoon we will work our way down to lower ground and decide whether to stay another night at the “campo alto” or at Machuracay Tambo

DAY 08: Machuracay – Chillca
According to our decision on the day before, we will either decent first from “campo alto” to Machuracay and continue to Chilca Tambo, or we could hike directly on rolling hills and pasture lands for alpacas from Machuracay to Chillca, where we can choose to spend the night in our comfortable “tambo”, or to leave for Cusco.

DAY 09: Chillca Tambo – Cusco
After a final short walk our bus will be waiting to take us back to Cusco.

Included:

• All organization.
• Private transport to Congomire and back to Cusco.
• Llamas to carry part of your personal equipment on the trekking.
• Meals outside of Cusco.
• Expert leadership.
• Lodging in double occupancy rooms on the trekking part
• (including private bathrooms with running cold and hot water)
• All technical group equipment, trekking tents, high altitude tents, ropes, ice pickets, ice screws, snow-shoes, mark-flags, medical-kit.

Not included:

• Meals in Cusco.
• Tips for trekking staff.
• Flights.
• Airport taxes.

Physical conditioning for the climbing
It is very important that you are aware of the fact that climbing at high altitude is much more strenuous than elsewhere. To get ready for our task, continuous aerobic exercise is necessary (biking is excellent, too).

Each member of the party should consult a physician, describing the conditions of the climb and asking him to recommend a training program. We are sure that you are in good physical condition, but this recommendations should suite all members of our team.

Climbing material participants should bring with them:

• Ice axe, a general uses one for 30-40 degree slopes.
• Crampons, 12 point, glacier & snow climb, crampon straps.
• Carabiners, four in total, preferably locking.
• Prusic knot or jumar ascender; one per pax, (for use in case of crevasse rescue)
• Seat and chest harness
• Winter sleeping bag
• Large back pack, 50 –60 liters
• 2 pairs of boots, one pair for hiking and another pair for climbing (they should be double plastic or leather and hold crampons well)
• Gaiters and/or over-boots
• Clothing for trekking, clothing for climbing
• Sweater, parka with hood, wind/rain jacket and pants
• Climbing pants, 2 hiking pants, shorts
• Thermal underwear, 3 sets of underwear
• Balaclava hat, sun hat
• Wool shirts, light shirts
• Linen sox, 3 pairs of heavy wool sox
• Fingerless gloves, mittens
• Personal medical kit, pocket knife, 2 water bottles, glacier glasses, head lamp (spare bulbs and batteries)
• Other items of personal nature, as camera, binoculars etc.